Kaokoland Landscapes: Wild and Rugged

In a recent trip to the far north-west of Namibia, I came across some of the most spectacular scenery, amazing people and got up close to some dramatic wildlife. So much to say and show, but bite-size chunks means I’ll get it posted quicker.

The Kaokoland area is known for its remoteness, ruggedness and tough off-road tracks. This in a country that is sparsely populated and where much of your driving is on gravel roads. Over the past two-years I have seen a lot of Namibia, and it is a beautiful nation. But I had my mind blown in Kaokoland. There is something about the area that just feels bigger, wider, and empty of people.

The area is populated, mainly by the Himba people many of whom continue a very traditional lifestyle and dress. But on the road, where you may see, possibly, one other vehicle all day, the expansiveness of the area is captivating. The fact that the roads can be quite challenging also adds to the feeling of seeing things for the very first time (even though your rational mind knows that is not the case – people have been settled here for millenia, just not very many of them).

Epupa Falls

Starting at the top and working down. Epupa Falls on the Kunene River, is on the border with Angola. It is a three hour drive on pretty good road from the regional centre of Opuwo (which is about 7hrs from Windhoek on excellent sealed roads). Epupa does not have the scale or the vertical of many more famous falls. Nevertheless, after driving through arid rocky landscape, coming across this belt of green along the river, with the mists of the falls catching the sun, it feels spectacular.

Sandra and I camped at the Omarunga Camp and Lodge for N$110pppn. Slap on the river, with views down to the falls and, across from camp, the local resident crocodile.

The falls themselves are less than two minutes walk. In the heat of the day, you could take a cooling dip into the pools at the top (we opted for the lodge pool though). There is also a walking track best tackled early or late (early is coolest). Well worth it for the spectacular views.

Somewhere between Opuwo and Orupembe

Our plan was to drive the three hours back to Opuwo, fuel up (including the extra 20L jerrycan) and head on to Otjiu where, we had been told, there was a campsite. After about 40km, just past Kaoko Otavi the road changed from the generally high level of graded gravel roads that Namibia enjoys, to the off-road track that is the standard for much of Kaokoland. Time to slow down and enjoy the “African massage”.

Of course, the view was also worth stopping for when we wanted a break. And we both loved this sign post in the middle of nowhere.

We reached Otjiu, having passed a campsite about 10km back. Later in the trip we realised that Otjiu does, in fact, have two camps sites. The one 10km before and the one 10km after the village (there is only one road, so the directions hold however you approach the village). So for any future travellers that way, the sites are there, but not actually in the village itself.

At the time, though, we passed through the village, and realised the campsite may have been about 15km back. As we were getting tired from the journey, we pulled off at a likely looking spot and set-up camp with a view across the Hoarusib riverbed. Not quite where we planned to be, but after a tiring drive, it was the perfect place to be.

Otjiu to Marble Campsite

The landscape and the road began to become more impressive, and more rugged. The numbers of villages began to drop off, and the wildlife began to pick-up.




There are actually two Ostrich in the photos. No prizes for the first, but can you spot the second?

Marble Campsite – Orupembe – Puros

Possibly the most stunning vistas of the trip. The scenery is on a grand scale and the photos really do not do the place justice.

Around Puros

I will be doing a whole post just on Puros. A lot happened there. However, here is a taster of what we saw.

There is more, much more. So I shall aim to split the rest of this particular trip into a few smaller posts.

On the people…

On the wildlife…

On the campsites and driving…

And not forgetting Puros. A very special experience.